Scris la 25 septembrie 2018 in Povesti despre vin | Un comentariu

“Scrie pe” povești trăite de oameni care iubesc vinul. Astăzi îl avem invitat pe Gian Luca Garattoni. Italian din Bologna și carea a trăit ani buni în Finlanda, Gian Luca s-a stabilit de curând in Serbia, devenind un bun cunsoscator al vinurilor din Balcani, urmând să lanseze un blog de vinuri și călătorii. Este un activ membru al comunitații winelover și un bun prieten al vinurilor românești.

   The Second edition of the Vin La Cultura wine festival has taken place on the 22nd and 23rd of September 2018 in a new venue. If the first edition was in the beautiful Palace of Culture, this one was organized in the modern Palas Mall, less suggestive for sure but more comfortable for both operators and visitors.
More than 30 wineries were present, mostly from Romania, but also the nearby Republic of Moldova was there with some very interesting see amazing wines. Upstairs there was a VIP space, basically a wine bar where you could taste some excellent wines from Romania, Italy, France and Moldova. It was also possible to attend reasonably priced Masterclasses.
It was a two-days full immersion in the wine world, open to operators and grand public as well.
Although already a fan of the Romanian wine scene, still I’ve found amazing on how the variety of soil and climate affects the final result of viticulture: the wine in your glass.
The most iconic, for a foregneir, indigenous variety is Feteasca Neagra (lit. The Black of the Maiden). The first experience one can make abroad of a wine issued from this type of grape, is, almost certainly, a product coming from Dealu Mare, an area in the region of Muntenia, around 100km NorthEast of Bucharest. There the largely black clay soil (sedimentary, the area was once under the sea level), and the long, dry summers, are optimal conditions for the ripening of the red grapes, giving an intense, mature fruit, and a big structure. Feteasca Neagra there has a distinctive nose of dark plums, remarkable tannic structure and rather high alcool levels, a Dealu Mare Feteasca Neagra can sometimes, by a non-initiate, be mistaken for a Merlot. I personally prefer versions from lighter soils and cooler climates. There spiciness, salinity and elegant, often silky texture characterize the wines, enhancing the specificity of the varietal. A good example, widely available, is Cotnari’s Feteasca Neagra 2015, from nearby Iaşi, from the same area Strunga makes also a very good version, I’ve tasted a barrel sample 2017, still too many primary flavors, but the structure and length guarantee a lovely final result in a year time.
But my all time favorite came from Nothern Dobrogea, near the Danube Delta, there the soil is sandy combined with the cooling Black Sea breeze create the conditions for lively, spicy and elegant Feateascas N. Sarica’s Caii de la Leta, editie limitata 2013 is, so far the best F.N. of my life. I told Ilinca Gorodenco, the sommeliere at the stand, that I could describe it as a “structured kadarka”, apologizing for my poor terminology, she replied smiling, that she understood what I meant and agreed. Another Caii de la Leta editie limitata wine really worth trying was their Chardonnay, in a blind tasting one can think it’s from Southern Burgundy: flint, yes but also distinctive ripe fruit notes, really good! Last but not least: their premium rose. So far the only Romanian rose to win the gold medal at the Brussels’ contest (Feteasca Neagra, Pinot Noir and a bit of Syrah. When Ilinca poured the wine in my glass I was disappointed by the pale salmon color( “Oh no, they made a Cote-de-Provence”), but, as usual the first impression was misleading, long and structure, perfect balance in all components, one of the few time I could totally agree with a jury.
Another very interesting winery is Crama La Salina, from Turda, near Cluj Napoca, Transylvania. I loved their Rhein Riesling 2017: citrus, salinity, you could already sense a petrol evolution, only I found it a bit too alcoholic, but it is really a good drink. They make, in my opinion, a great Pinot Noir, the sour cherry fruit is just an element of a broad  aromatic spectrum, with black pepper, leather and also salt. To give a vague idea: imagine a Santenay.
A look now at across the Border: from Microzona Purcari, near the Nistru River and the border with Ukraine, Equinox 2015. 100% Syrah, big structure, intense fruit (for Europe, forget about Barossa) and such a richness in spices, black pepper, of course, but there was much more than that, some aromas were merely present, some more powerful, anyway nothing aggressive. Again a comparison with France meant only to give a general idea of what I’m talking about (similar to a Northern Rhône Cornas).
Now brief descriptions on what I found upstairs in the VIP space the superstar was from Deaulu Mare: Flamboyant 2006, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Feteasca Neagra. Immense wine for complexity and structure, but you really could receive the tactile perception of silk on your tongue. Dark plum (D. Mare Feteasca Neagra do you remember?) evident chocolate (mostly due to Merlot) The Cabernet Sauvignon brings tannins and black pepper. Like Equinox: Flamboyant is the top of the world.
A final mention for  the MasterClass held by Marian Timofti, a highly respected sommelier on Col d’Orcia Winery, an icon from Montalcino. The beginning, a Rosso di Montalcino 2014, was upsetting, a watery wine with delicate floral notes, a die-hard Italian habit, to make a bad entry-level counting on the mere brand. But a selection of Rosso di Montalcino, la Banditella 2010, was good, the Brunello 2012 was a very good representative of Sant’Angelo in Colle Terroir, warm microclimate, clay-limestone soil. The very happy end was the Poggio Al Vento 2010 a cult wine, with the typical Tuscany’s Sangiovese’s evolution : liquorice, balsamic plants such as rosemary and laurel, a bit of leather, a tertiary.
Vin La Cultura is a good occasion to uncover part of the Romanian wine’s secrets while enjoying the sights and atmosphere of the beautiful city of Iaşi.

Un comentariu

  1. Interesant,argumentat,prea putine referiri vis a vis de numarul de crame participante…

Lasa un comentariu

Adresa ta de email nu va fi publicată. Câmpurile obligatorii sunt marcate cu *

Acest sit folosește Akismet pentru a reduce spamul. Află cum sunt procesate datele comentariilor tale.

Bloguri, Bloggeri si Cititori